I've long wanted to create an ambergris perfume. I have plenty of ambergris tincture but am confronted with the fact that ambergris tincture has to age in the light for several months before it develops its aroma. Each piece of ambergris has a different aroma profile.
I've found that the "higher end" more expensive ambergris produces a more fleeting aroma, reminiscent of isopropanol, but one so luxurious and alluring that there's really no comparison. One smells harsh and chemically and the other luxurious with a gentle underlying animal character. This animal character is present in all my perfumes as I find that dissonance and a little funk do wonders for perfume, light citrus eaux de toilette excepted. Unfortunately, the more expensive ambergris is the least persistent. Less expensive pieces contain a little more of the barnyard character. It is a combination of these facets upon which I want to base my perfume.
I realize, however, that an ambergris perfume is a lot more complicated than one might think. If you use ambergris alone, you have to use too much and the perfume gets too expensive. So, it's important to build a base that the ambergris can stand on. This involves chemicals such as ambroxan which mimics the aroma of the real deal.
The current stage involves working through my aroma chemicals and naturals (I have about 300 of each) and seeing (smelling) which might work with ambergris. I've already discovered seaweed absolute which is definitely going into the blend.
Anyway, experimentation continues. I would like to release the perfume in a month or so.