The other night my husband came up to the lab and was fooling around with some perfume samples I had sitting around. Of course, I asked him to put on a bit of Green Iris, which he completely approved of. As he was trying on other stuff too, he made an interesting comment.
He had put a little of my musk next to the spot where he put the iris and said how well they went together. This struck me, because earlier in the day, I was thinking about how Green Iris doesn’t have any musk.
I put some ambrettolide (a very refined musk reminiscent of ambrette seed) on a smelling strip and juxtaposed it with a strip with Green Iris on it. I knew I was onto something so I asked my friend Megan, who was visiting from the Berkshires, to compare iris without musk and iris with. We both agreed that Green Iris by itself has a lovely freshness, but that the version with the musk was a little more mysterious and intriguing.
Naturally, I won’t just settle for adding a little ambrettolide, but will experiment with adding ambrette seed (made from hibiscus flowers and outrageously expensive) as well as other musks in my collection of 21.
I’ve started out with a 40:1 dilution of Green Iris to musk. Initially, this is quite subtle, but I want to see how these musks present on the dry down. According to one of my favorite authors, Arcadi Boix Camps, muscone is one of the compounds occurring in natural deer musk, and while it smells completely different, according to him, it lasts just as long (which is very long). This might be a way of making the perfume more persistent.
Once I’ve had a chance to smell the smelling strips, I will have a full report.