My oud source has again run out—there seems to be no more aku akira—so I’ve had to reformulate using new ouds. I ordered 14 different oud samples and tested them all for balance and longevity. I’m now using Malaysian oud, a Hindi, and another one of uncertain origin.

If nothing else, this whole process is teaching me about oud. Hindis seem to be the funky ones and I consider funkiness an essential element. (Roquefort cheese, not just any banal blue cheese, is an often-recognized component.) I also want there to be that ethereal thing that seems to float on top. This set of aromas is transcendental, meaning, in my own parlance, that it takes me somewhere else and evokes images and memories, some of which are completely inexplicable. In wine, I call this terroir.

But I’ve been getting frustrated. When I smelled my original oud (the first edition), I noticed a balsamic sweetness. I couldn’t figure out where it was coming from. It wasn’t vanilla or balsam or benzoin, but something unidentifiable. Then, all of a sudden, I realized what was going on. The first edition includes a miraculous kind of frankincense.

To be frank (no pun intended), I’ve never really liked frankincense since it reminds me of lemon furniture polish.

When I first started my adventures in perfumery, I ordered 17 different frankincense oils from all over the world, including very expensive wild harvested, green Oman, and every exotic and expensive thing I could find. The all disappointed me except one. I had ordered it from Singapore and it was divine, unlike anything I’ve ever smelled. I used it in my original oud.

A year ago, the frankincense from the same supplier came in with the balsamic thing and the lemon polish thing in about equal parts. It’s still the best frankincense out there.

I’ve since ordered more, and it’s pure furniture polish. I’ve asked them about the original and they said they have a little from several years ago. Their minimum order is 5 kilos. That’s an enormous amount for me, but I would do it without hesitation if it’s the old stuff.

This all makes me wonder if the frankincense described in the bible and in other sources that go on about it, isn’t the balsamic oud. The furniture polish thing is perhaps something new?

The new oud contains little frankincense and is a little bit harder and austere than the first and second editions. It also contains new exotic woods to round it out and provide a woody top note. This being said, I believe it to be the best expression of oud of all three editions.

Ambergris again and again

In an earlier entry, I made a mistake. I described the Medicine Flower “ambergris” as being ambergris when in fact, I think it’s civet. I emailed them and said that perhaps it had been mislabeled since it seemed to be civet. They denied selling civet (which is true) and reminded me that I had ordered the “ambergris” before with no problem. They’re right about that. It took me being away for a while and getting a little objectivity before I realized the civet thing. In any case, whatever it is, I tinctured it and have it maturing in the refrigerator. Whether it’s civet or not, I don’t know, but it does tincture nicely and I would use it as civet. It may, in fact, end up being a good source. It is, however, expensive.

My obsession with ambergris has inspired me to make an ambergris perfume that contains real ambergris and not just a token amount—an amount that will make a real difference.

Since each ball of ambergris seems to have a different character, I like to blend them. Brown ambergris creates a funkier (and I think more persistent) aroma than white. White ambergris has that classic isopropanol thing going on. It’s beautiful and opens the perfume with this rubbing alcohol note—but this rubbing alcohol is to rubbing alcohol in a bottle what dried cod is to beluga.

Phase one of the ambergris perfume is to gather every ingredient, synthetic or natural, that reminds me of the sea in some way. White and brown ambergris tinctures will both be used to create the right balance. Other things such as seaweed absolute, helional, ambroxan, mushroom absolute, and dozens of weird ocean things.

My morning subway ride is my daily reminder of what people are wearing out there and I smell a lot of ambroxan. People want the smell of ambergris and that slightly off animal smell.